- Background information: by edgardowelelo@yahoo.com, Master of the Game
As the matter of fact, the Eastern Arc Mountains, one of the world’s natural hotspots, form a crescent – shaped chain around 1500 kilometres in length consisting of a total of 20 individual mountains or mountain groups and running from Malawi and Mozambique through Tanzania to southern Kenya’s Taita Hills. The majority of the actual mountains are in Tanzania, where they are situated nine (9) blocks; from south to north, the Livingstone, Mbarika, Udzungwa, Rubeho, Malundwe, Mahenge, Ukaguru, Nguru, Nguu, Usambara and Pare Mountains. The Taita Hills in south Kenya are the last outpost of the chain in the north, while the THYOLO MOUNTAINS in Malawi is the southernmost wing of the chain. The Eastern Arc Mountains are ancient crystalline blocks uplifted at least 25 million years ago, though some more recent, but less pronounced geological upheavals have also occurred. It is generally agreed that the natural diversity of the Udzungwa Mountains is the highest among all the stretches of the Eastern Arc Mountains.
The blocks are covered by dense forests, but in the course of the millions of years the East African climate has become drier and the uniform forest mantle reaching down to the shore of the Indian Ocean has retreated to the west, with the consequence that the forests on the Eastern Arc Mountains now form isolated patches. This isolation has, of course, led in turn to large – scale speciation, and since the two most significant requirements for this, time and space, have been available in abundance, the result is a high rate of endemism.
As far as the world’s hotspot areas are concerned, the Eastern Arc Mountains are today – included in the region known as the EASTERN AFRO MONTANE HOTSPOTS, which are mountains scattered along the eastern edge of Africa, from Saudi Arabia in the north to Zimbabwe in the south.
Background information: by edgardowelelo@yahoo.com / Master of the Game
The rain forest – capped ULUGURUS rise up behind the town of Morogoro, which offers an excellent base from which to conduct trips to the Mountains. The area is conveniently reached when travelling to Mikumi and other parks on the Southern circuit. The main Uluguru Mountains form a steep ridge running approximately north – south. They rise to 2,630 metres above sea level at their highest point, with a number of outlying hills around the main ridge. The Uluguru range and outlying reserves such as Kasanga, Mhangala, Bunduki and Shikurufumi. Fifty villages touch the forest boundary and more than 300,000 people are found within the Mountain area, often at increasing densities at higher altitudes up to the forest boundary. The main Uluguru ridge is divided into two, termed Uluguru North and Uluguru South, separated by an area of lower land called Bunduki. There are opportunities for walks in both parts of the Mountains.
- GEOLOGY
The Uluguru Mountains are composed of ancient rocks that were strongly deformed through melting and solidifying once more. Running through these ancient rocks are veins of other rocks, often bearing minerals and semi – precious materials. Among the minerals is white mica, a flaky transparent substance resembling hard plastic, which used to be commercially mined to make heat – resistant windows. There are also deposits with crystals of tourmaline and garnet.
- GEOMORPHOLOGY
The Uluguru Mountains are a block of the Earth’s crust that was pushed up by pressure when there was a splitting of the crust further west to form the Great Rift Valley. At their widest point, in Uluguru South, the block is largely flat – topped, but towards the northern end it is a steep ridge with peaks along the ridge. Overall, the mountains are steep and rugged, with many rockoutcrops (Kopjes). This contrasts with the largely flat surrounding area.
- AGRICULTURE
The Uluguru Mountains support a mixed agricultural system. At lower altitudes there are fields of maize, pigeon peas, fruit trees such as oranges and jack fruit, and spices such as cinnamon and black pepper. At higher altitudes there are plantations of banana, and at the highest altitudes there are fields of potato, peas, cabbage, and even a few old coffee plants and soft fruit such as strawberry and raspberry. Land is typically not farmed every year, but is left fallow to recover its fertility.
- NATURAL VEGETATION
The natural vegetation of the Uluguru main ridge and the outlying blocks is extremely variable. It ranges from drier Miombo woodlands and lowland coastal forests at the base of the Mountains, to sub – montane, montane and upper montane forest types at higher altitudes. It also includes an area of afromontane grasslands on the Lukwangule plateau. All these habitats are rich in endemic species and of high conservation priority. More than 70 per cent of the natural vegetation has been converted to farmland of various types over the past few hundred years.
- BIODIVERSITY VALUES
The Ulugurus are one of the three most important mountain blocks in the so called EASTERN ARC MOUNTAINS CHAIN, which stretches from the TAITA HILLS in Kenya through Pare, Usambara, Nguu, Nguru, Malundwe, Rubeho, Ukaguru, Mahenge, Udzungwa to Makambako Gap in Tanzania. This chain of Mountains is of global importance for the conservation of biodiversity in the Ulugurus, for example, there are more than 135 plants, two birds, two mammals, four reptiles and six amphibians that are found nowhere else in the world. In addition to these there are many species which are only shared with one or two other Eastern Arc Mountains, and hence are globally rare. The endemic species include African violets, Busy Lizzies and Begonias, all of which are popular house plants in Europe, America and elsewhere.
- WATER CATCHMENT
The Ulugurus feed water to a number of rivers that join together to form the Ruvu River which flows past Dar es Salaam and is the city’s major water supply. This water flows mainly from the forest – capped peaks of the Ulugurus, and it is the continued presence of the forest which guarantees that Dar es - Salaam gets its water throughout the year (especially in the long dry season).
- LOCAL PEOPLE
The local tribe of the Ulugurus is the Luguru, although the Maasai visit seasonal grazing areas in the lowlands to the east and south of the Mountains. The Luguru people speak a distinct dialect – Kiluguru – and have been in these Mountains for several hundred years, although they originally came from other parts of Tanzania. Their culture includes chiefs, specialised rainmakers and traditional healers. There are complex rites and ceremonies associated with passing from girlhood to womanhood, and land ownership runs through the female line, so women are powerful in village life, in contrast to most other tribes in Tanzania. The forests are traditionally held to be the home of the Luguru’s ancestors, and are also believed to harbour of giant snake.
- HISTORY AND LANDSCAPE
The Uluguru Mountains are a significant feature of the coastal landscape and have long been an important landmark for those passing through the region, either westwards in the interior or eastwards to the coast. It is a natural place for a stopping point, having fresh plentiful water and reliable food supplies from the Mountains. Morogoro is well known from 19th – century literature as the gateway through which traders from Zanzibar passed inland to collect ivory, slaves and gum copal. According to Stanley, who passed through Morogoro in his search for Livingstone, one of the Sultans of Zanzibar created a fortress here, only to have it washed away by flooding. In 1885 this region became part of German East Africa and was exploited for its natural resources: timber, semi – precious stones and minerals (carnelian, quartz crystal, ruby, tourmaline and mica in particular). A variety of specialized crops were attempted on the lower slopes. Morning side, a once productive farm on Uluguru North, dates from this time, and lies on the intermediate level of the Mountainside facing west. There are similar German buildings at Bunduki. Tchenzema, and around Nyandira in Uluguru South, including remnants of coffee farms and a trout fishing lodge. In 1919, when the Ulugurus and Morogoro region were handed to British – Colonial rulers, the area was subject to further intensive farming methods. The authoritarian approach to the new methods proved very unpopular and by the 1950s there was intense social unrest. Eventually these practices were abandoned. In the higher areas of the Mountains, Christian missions were built, especially in the South. Maps of British Tanganyika in 1960 show the influence of British occupancy of the Ulugurus and Morogoro region. Bungalows with gardens and tree – lined road ways were built in Morogoro; there are important municipal buildings (off the Boma Road) and even a quaint reconstruction of an English Christian Church with a tower, Chancel and nave (attributed to the Ruggles Brise / Gurney family of Norfolk. With independence, the Uluguru Mountains became an area of importance to national security, and access to many parts was restricted to several decades. These restrictions were gradually lifted from the early 1990s onwards, and today the entire area can be enjoyed by tourists and Tanzanians alike.
- VISITING THE ULUGURUS
The government of Tanzania, the managers of the Uluguru Nature Reserve, and several of the communities around the Ulugurus are keen to encourage visitors to come to the area to walk in the Mountains and enjoy the views, farmlands, local culture, forests and waterfalls. Permits are required to enter the Uluguru Nature Reserve, and can be obtained from the Uluguru Nature Reserve Conservator. The Uluguru Nature Reserve office is located within the complex of the Regional Catchment Forest Office (Maliasili) close to the Simba Oil Fuel Station on the Morogoro to Msamvu road (the main road into Morogoro from the Tanzania Highway). Permits include payments for hiking, camping, taking photos etc.
Background information: by edgardowelelo@yahoo.com / Master of the Game.
UKAGURU MOUNTAINS are a mountain range in central Tanzania. The Mountains are in Morogoro Region, East of Tanzania’s capital Dodoma. The Mountains are named for the Kaguru people. The Ukaguru Mountains are part of the Eastern Arc Mountains, and are home to a biodiversity community of flora and fauna with large numbers of endemic species.
- GEOGRAPHY
The Ukaguru Mountains are plateau covering an area of 1,258.8 Sq.km. The Mkondoa River separates the Ukaguru Mountains from the Rubeho Mountains to the southwest. The Mkata plain lies to the east. The Nguru Mountains lie to the north – east. The Kiboriani Mountains, a western outlier of the Ukagurus and East African Plateau lie to the west.
- CLIMATE
The Ukaguru Mountains lie in the rain shadow of the taller Uluguru Mountains to the southeast, which block the moisture – laden winds from the Indian Ocean which provide most of the rainfall in the Eastern Arc Mountains. Most of the rainfall occurs in the November through May wet season, although mist and light rain occur at higher elevations during the dry season months. Rainfall is higher on the southern and eastern slopes and lower in the mountains’ rain shadow to the north and west. Temperatures are cooler and rainfall is higher at higher elevations.
- GEOLOGY / TOPOGRAPHY/GEOGRAPHICAL FEATURES
The Ukaguru Mountains along with the others in the Eastern Arc are made up of ancient crystalline Precambrian rocks that were uplifted over millions of years along fault lines. The most recent period of uplift started 30 million years ago, but the fault system and uplift process may be far older. Soils derived from these ancient rocks are not as fertile as the younger volcanic soils of mountains to the north and west.
- FLORA AND FAUNA
About thirty million years ago, the area was covered by extensive rainforest. During a cooler and drier period some ten million years ago, the lowland forests were converted to savanna, leaving the mountain ranges as ‘’islands’’ where the tropical forests continued to flourish. The long – term persistence of a humid climate and the isolation of each mountain range has led to a great deal of endemism and a very diverse flora and fauna. The Ukaguru and other Eastern Arc Mountains have extremely high biodiversity with numerous endemic species (more than 25 per cent of the vertebrate species). The Ukaguru Mountains are covered with Miombo woodland on the eastern and southern slopes. Acacia – Commiphora woodland and savanna on the northern and western slopes and montane rainforest, dry montane forest, montane grassland at higher elevations. Forests extend from 1500 to 2250 metres elevation. An analysis of satellite images taken between 1999 and 2003 found 172 Sq. km of the mountains were still covered in evergreen forest. Tree species in the montane evergreen forests include Balthasaria schliebenii, Ocotes usambarensis, Podocarpus milanjianus and Polyscias stuhlmannii. The forests are less diverse and have a lower canopy, than montane forest in the other Eastern Arc Mountains. Large areas of degraded montane grassland lie west of the main ridgeline. The toads Nectophrynoides laticeps and N. paulae are endemic to the Ukaguru Mountains. The plants Peddiea thulinii and Lobelia sancta are endemic to the Ukagurus.
- PROTECTED AREAS AND CONSERVATION
The Ikwamba (889 ha), Mamboto (149 ha), Mamiwa – Kisara North (7,897 ha), Mamiwa – Kisara South (6,266 ha) and Uponera (293 ha) forest reserves preserve areas of montane forest. Two smaller forest reserves are dominated by exotic pine plantations.
- TRANSPORT (HOW TO GET THERE)
Tanzania Central Line railway between Dar es Salaam and western Tanzania passes the southern end of the mountains, following the Mkondoa River between the Ukaguru and Rubeho Mountains. Tanzania’s B 127 highway runs along the eastern base of the mountains, and the B 129 highway, which connects Morogoro and Dodoma, runs north of the range between the Ukaguru and Nguru Mountains.
- NOTE AND REMEBER (CASE OF UKAGURU FOREST PLANTATION)
Ukaguru Forest Plantation is located within the Millindo Forest Reserve in the Northern end of Ukaguru Mountains Range (Rubeho Mountains System) in Gairo District (Morogoro Region). The forest lies between latitude 3608’ E- 370 E South and longitudes 60’s to 605’S East. The forest is accessed by two routes, one from Mvumi junction to plantation station (52 km) another from forest station to Gairo (Morogoro – Dodoma Highway) via Rubeho (42 km). The plantation was established in 1956 by Government Notice (GN) No. 64 with total area of 2153 Ha. The plantation is divided into two (2) ranges; the ranges are mostly named based on the name of the vicinity village or on the certain historical events. This gives Trial Plot (TP) Range and Mandege Range. The idea of establishing large scale soft wood project was first initiated in late fifties (1950s) after the research showed that Cupressus lustanica, Pinus patula and P. caribaea would perform better in lower altitude. The first plantation of 1700 Ha was planted in 1954. The main species which are planted include Cupressus lustanica, C. Pinus patula and P. caribaea in the lower elevation. Moreover, afforestation has been concentrated and limited to grassland areas with P. patula in Mandege range and P. caribaea in TP range. Geographically the area is mountainous with steep valleys at an altitude ranging from 1,160 – 1500 m above sea level. It is also characterised by cool and alternating hot seasons. The area receives about 1,300 mm of rainfall per year. A closed natural forest surrounds the plantation in all sides except a stretch in the North – Eastern to South – Eastern parts where there is open wooded grassland. 15 metres high waterfall found in the plantation create beautiful view with green vines and lush green from plantation trees blooming from well naturally architecture designed landscapes. The waterfalls are potential source of hydro – power and it collects its water from eight different tributaries, the falls capacitated from the surrounding natural forest.
The Usambara Mountains are part of the Eastern Arc Chain in the north – eastern part of the country. Their western and eastern ranges are divided by a 4km wide valley of small villages and farms, and hiking trails cover the foothills and larger peaks. Day walks and overnight treks take visitors through some of the most concentrated areas of biodiversity in Africa. Bird watching is especially rewarding, and the views from the mountaintops stretch over the Maasai steppe and, on a clear day, as far as the Indian Ocean.
Lying west of Dar es Salaam, the Udzungwa Mountains rise up steeply from the edge of Selous(over 30.000 sq.km of this reserve has been set aside and upgraded as J.k. Nyerere National Park). Vervet Monkeys (Black – faced monkeys) play in the forest canopy, and small antelopes can be viewed at the right time. Botanical diversity is exceptional, and the park is host to a large number of endangered bird species. The unique geological and environmental conditions of the Udzungwa region have produced a large number of endemic species, making the region a treat for nature lovers. Views from the peaks of the Mountains are incredible and well worth the effort. Five distinct trails cover the forests and mountain peaks within the Udzungwa Mountains National Park, offering various levels of difficulty for everyone from novices to experienced trekkers.
Pare Mountains are part of the Eastern Arc range in north – eastern Tanzania, the remote Pare Mountains are extremely rewarding to the avid trekker searching for hiking trails off the beaten path. Home to the Pare People, agriculturalists and pastoralists who have largely retained their traditional way of life, a hike through the Pare Mountains takes visitors through local villages and beautiful forests and offers the chance to see a little – visited part of the country.
The Livingstone Mountains are a low – altitude chain that borders Lake Nyasa. Remote and difficult to reach, climbing is largely uncharted and for the most part the area remains unexplored by hikers.
