Southern Africa Region

• Background information; by edgardowelelo@yahoo.com

Angola, the largest country in Southern Africa (481,350 Sq. miles / 1,246, 697 Sq. km), is located on a high plateau on the Atlantic coast between the equator and the Tropic of Capricorn. It has a single wet season, October through April, and otherwise is pleasantly dry and cool. With 26 permanent rivers flowing into the Atlantic, along with major tributaries of the Congo, Zambezi, and Okavango Rivers, it is well watered (except in the Southwest).  About 90 percent of the country is covered with Miombo woodland and Savanna, and national parks and nature reserves have covered 6.6 percent of the country. However, after years of civil war, the status of wildlife and the integrity of the parks are uncertain.

• THE SOUTHERN AND CENTRAL COASTS

The north – flowing Benguela Current brings cold water from the direction of Antarctica nearly to the equator. The very arid coastal Namib Desert enters Angola south of the port of Namibe (formerly Mossamedes). There is no rainy season here, yet it is often foggy, with low clouds and low temperatures. Average highs range from 68ᵒF to 84ᵒ F (20 - 29ᵒ C). South of Namibe lie Namibe Nature Reserve about 1,235,000 acres / 500,000 ha) and Iona National Park (3,742,100 acres / 1,515,000 ha). The scant vegetation includes the welwitschia, a primitive conifer with two long, coiled leaves. The gravel desert and valley of the Cunene River to the east host herds of Springboks and Ostriches, and lesser numbers of elephants, black rhinos, Hartmann’s mountain zebras, and gemsboks. Angola’s central shoreline, which receives only 13” (350 mm) of rain per year, is lined with beaches, mangroves, and salt marshes.  Cape gannets, sea terns, and cormorants are common at Luanda, the capital.  South of Luanda, on the southern side of the Cuanza River, Kisama (Quicama) National Park (2,346,500 acres / 950,000 ha) has tracks and lodging. It comprises coast, floodplain, savanna, woodland, and hill forest. Wildlife includes the bushbuck, forest buffalo, roan, eland, elephant, lion, cheetah, leopard, wild dog, manatee, talapoin monkey, palm – nut vulture, crocodile, and sea turtles. Baobab and euphorbia trees dot the grassy savanna south to Lobito, where flamingos and wading birds flock to the many salt pans.

• THE MOUNTAINS AND PLATEAU

Inland, a transition zone leads up to a north – south range of mountains (serras). In the north this is a series of gentle steps, but in the south steep cliffs, up to 3,000” (900 m) high, rise to the edge of a great tilted plateau. Isolated patches of humid montane forest, with rare flora and endemic birds, occur in Huambo, Benguela, and Huila provinces. The mountain city of Huambo (formerly Nova Lisboa) lies at 5,600” (1,700 m) elevation near a lake and coffee plantations. It enjoys 57” (1,425 mm) of annual rainfall, with average highs of 82 - 90ᵒ F (28 - 32ᵒC). Lubango, to the south, is near the great rounded peaks of the Serra da Chela.  Nearby live the Muila people, who create impressive beadwork, and the Mucubau, known for their fabulous headgear. East of the mountains lies the Angolan plateau, with average elevations of 4,000 – 6100” (1,200 – 1,850 m).Temperatures are relatively cool, and frost occurs in winter above 5,000’ (1,500 m). Malange, a city 220 mi (360 km) east of Luanda, is the base for visiting the multi –channel Duque de Braganca Falls. To the south are Kangandala (Cangandala) National Park (155,600 acres / 63,000 ha) and Luando Integral Reserve (2,045, 200 acres / 828,000 ha), both of which were set up to protect the last herds of the giant sable. The hilly miombo woodland and grassland also support buffalos, elands, roans, sitatungas, and hippos.

• THE SOUTHERN INTERIOR

In southern Angola, Southeast of Lubango, there are two parks of open woodland, grassland, and thickets along the upper Cunene River;  Bikuar (Bicuari) National Park (1,951,300 acres / 790,000 ha) and Mupa National Park (1,630,200 acres / 660,000 ha). Both have been home to the elephant, black rhino, zebra, eland, buffalo, black – faced Impala, blue wildebeest, giraffe, roan, and greater Kudu. The top safari area in the southeast, a vast area of undulating plains over deep Kalahari sand, is Kameia (Cameia) National Park (3,569,200 acres / 1,445,000 ha), near the Zambia border, flanking the Zambezi and Luena rivers. It has camps, and hosts the lion, elephant, giraffe, and ostrich.

• THE NORTH

Northern Angola is mainly savanna with grassland and miombo woodland, and patches of evergreen forest. The northern border runs along the south bank of the Congo River. To the north of the Congo is the oil – rich enclave of Cabinda, which has had tall unprotected rain forest with lowland gorillas, chimpanzees, elephants, and more than 400 species of birds, including great blue turacos and large hornbills.

• Background information; by edgardowelelo@yahoo.com

Much of Botswana, in southern Africa (219,916 Sq. miles / 569,582 Sq. km), is a flat plateau averaging 3,300” (1,000 m elevation). The single rainy season produces 20’’ (500 mm) or more of annual rain in the north and east from November through March. The Kalahari Desert, stretching across the southern half of Botswana, receives about 8” (200 mm) annually, but the rains fail some years. Parks protect 17 percent of the land. The Okavango Delta and Chobe National Park are among the finest wildlife areas in Africa.

• THE EAST

Near Gaborone, the capital, the rare Cape vulture has several breeding hills. Along the Limpopo River to the north are isolated hills in relatively wet savanna with a number of private game reserves (wit lodging), including – the vast Mashutu Private Game Reserve. Large mammals have been reintroduced here to join the abundant small animal and bird life. Francistown, near the Zimbabwe border, is the starting point for roads west to the pans (vast salt flats), the Okavango Delta, and Chobe National Park.

• THE KALAHARI DESERT

This desert of semi – arid acacia steppes, grassland, thickets along dry streambeds, and flat pans is home to the last groups of San Bushmen. While temperatures exceed 100ᵒF (38ᵒC) on summer days, in winter (May through September) days are warm and nights near freezing. Safari outfitters with four –wheel – drIve vehicles, fuel, camping gear, food and water are essential, because there are no paved roads or lodgings in this area. Gemsbok National Park (5,928,000 acres/ 2,400,000 ha) and adjacent Mabuasehube Game Reserve  (442,600 acres / 179,200 ha) are in the southwest, while Central Kalahari (Kgalagdi)  Game Reserve (12,794,600 acres/ 5,180,000 ha) and nearby Khurse (Kutse) Game Reserve (602,700 acres/ 244,000 ha) are in central Botswana. Mammals in these parks include the gemsbok, red hartebeest, blue wildebeest, greater Kudu,springbok,steenbok, lion, leopard, wild dog, cheetah, and brown hyena. The larger ungulates migrate from summer to winter ranges, and to wherever sporadic rains have fallen.

• THE PANS

Makgadikgadi Pan Game Reserve (1,020,110 acres / 413,000 ha) protects the northwestern edge of a vast pan (a salt flat that collects erratic rainfall). Some years it gets overflow water from the Okavango Delta and hosts flamingos and many other waterbirds.  It is a dry – seasonal (May through October) grazing area for tens of thousands of zebras, blue wildebeests, gemsboks, elands, and springboks. In the wet season (November through April) the animals move north to Nxai Pan National Park (370,500 acres / 150,000 ha), a lake bed covered with grass and fringed with baobab trees and palms. Giraffes, lions, cheetahs, bat - eared foxes and aardwolves are also present. Lake Ngami, 47 mi (75 km) southwest of the town of Maun, attracts numerous waterbirds during years when it gets overflow water from the Okavango.

• OKAVANGO DELTA

Maun is the chief town near this famous wildlife area; its airport is the connection point for charter aircraft to remote camps and lodges. The Okavango is an inland delta that receives rainwater from the highlands of Angola via the Cubango River. The flood reaches the southeastern delta in June and July, during the dry season. This influx evaporates, and the delta’s own rainy season begins in November, so water levels are always fluctuating.  There is a maze of channels, papyrus swamps, seasonally wet swales, grasslands, gallery forests, and Mopane woodlands. Temperatures are near freezing at night from June through August, but the days are warm and there are a few or no mosquitoes. Although the delta is not a national park, much of it is protected in the Moremi Wildlife Reserve (963,300 acres / 390,000ha). There are many small camps hereabouts, including one that specializes in elephant – back safaris, plus a few medium – size lodges. Night time game drives are permitted, increasing visitors’ chances to sight leopards, bushbabies, porcupines, springhares, and small carnivores. Mokoros (small, hand – poled boats) and canoes take visitors through shallow reedy marshes. Among the birds in the region are the wattled crane, saddle – billed stork, slaty egret, pygmy goose, fish – eagle, and Pel’s fishing owl. Gray go – away – birds, hornbills, and barbets come to feeders at many camps. The red lechwe,tsessebe, greater Kudu, and waterbuck are common in the delta, while the sable, roan, lion, and wild dog occur in fewer numbers. Buffalos, zebras, and elephants are often plentiful, but many migrate out to the pans or to Chobe. Some species are distrustful of humans and vehicles, due to the checker board of hunting areas in this region.

• CHOBE NATIONAL PARK

Chobe National Park is located at the northern tip of Botswana; the park covers 2,610,800 acres / 1,057,000 ha). It is watered by Angola’s Kuando River and is adjacent to Namibia’s Panhandle, the Caprivi Strip. The waters fill the Linyanti Swamp and then flow northeastward, forming the Chobe River, which flows into the Zambezi. Kusane, just east – of the park, has an airport and is 53 mi (85 km) via paved road from Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. There are lodges and camps on the river, from which boats depart to view hippos, waterbirds, fish – eagles, and carmine bee – eaters. Dirt tracks allow access to shoreline points, grassland, thickets, and woodland.  Elephants are abundant, while buffalos occur in herds of hundreds. Other mammals include the puku, impala, Chobe bushbuck, greater Kudu, giraffe, lion, and chacma baboon. The camps of the Savuti Marsh area in the Southwest are good bases for seeing lions, waterbirds, and great migratory herds of elephants and buffalos.

Background information; by edgardowelelo@yahoo.com.

The “roof” of southern Africa, this country is largely above 6,000” (1,800m) and is surrounded by South Africa. Its total area is 11,716 Sq. miles (30,344 Sq. km). Maseru, the capital, is in the somewhat lower and drier northwestern third. The rest is a mass of steep Canyons, Mountain ranges, and the inland plateau edge of the great escarpment of the Drakensberg range. The vegetation is chiefly grassland, with some scrub on hillsides and alpine heathland higher up. The highest point is the eastern Mount Thabana Ntlenyana at 11,425” (3,482 m), source of the Orange River. Rainfall averages 28” (700 mm) yearly, with fog, heavy thunderstorms, and hail in the summer and frequent snow in the winter. Temperatures vary from 90ᵒ F (32ᵒC) in summer to well below freezing in winter. There are organized foot and Pony trips to many scenic areas. Sehlabathebe National Park (16,808 acres / 6,805 ha), on the southeastern border, has lodging and trails. It is home to the gray rhebok, eland, baboon, bald ibis, lammergeyer, ground woodpecker, and Orange - breasted rock jumper.

Background information; by edgardowelelo@yahoo.com

Encompassing 45,193 Sq. miles / 117,050 Sq. km. Malawi is a narrow country, 580 mi (935 km) long, located at the southern end of the rift valley. The center piece is Lake Malawi (Nyasa), the third – largest lake in Africa and third – deepest in the world. The country has a greater range of climates and elevation than most, and 9 percent of its area is national parks and wildlife reserves, covering all major vegetation types.

• CENTRAL AND NORTH

Lilongwe, the capital, is located in the western plateau country. It receives 31” (775 mm) of annual rainfall, chiefly between November and April. Average highs are 73ᵒF (23ᵒC) in June and 82ᵒF (28ᵒC) in December. East of Lilongwe lies Lake Malawi National Park / World Heritage Site (21,500 acres) or 8,700 ha, which protects some of a Peninsula near the resort of Cape McLear and Monkey Bay, plus three islets. The site’s wildlife includes hippos, crocodiles, and fish - eagles; many white – breasted cormorants and Nile monitor lizards reside on the islets. Lake Malawi, also called Lake Nyasa, is 364 mi (587 km) long and supports the most diverse fish population of any lake in the world, with 450 species; 90 percent are endemic, and of these 350 are in the Cichlidae family. It sits at an elevation of 1,434’ (437 m). The shoreline varies from sandy beaches to swamps and cliffs. Much of western Malawi is plateau country, with peaks reaching 8,000” (2,400 m). Kasungu  National Park (572,100 acres / 231,600 ha) is a large area of rolling hills above 3,300” (1,000 m) on the Zambia border. Covered with Miombo woodland and grassland, it has lodging, tracks, and walking safaris. Mammals include the elephant, buffalo, Sable, roan, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest, eland, greater Kudu, zebra, black rhino, and cheetah.  The park is closed between January and May, when the roads are impassable due to rains. Vwaza Marsh Game Reserve (242, 100 acres / 98,000 ha) protects highland marshes west of Rumphi but is not developed for tourism. Nyika  Plateau National Park (774,100 acres / 313,400 ha), north of Rumphi, is open all year, despite an annual rainfall that reaches 80” (2,000 mm), heaviest in March and April. Elevations range from 5,250” to 8,500” (1,600 – 2,600 m), and frosts occur from June through August. This spectacular area of vast open grassland is dissected by deep valleys and waterfalls and topped by jagged peaks. The gorges support patches of montane evergreen forest where tall Podocarpus and Junipers meet seven species of Proteas, which are typical of Southern Africa. Mammals which can be easy to spot in this open country include the leopard, side – striped jackal, spotted hyenas, reedbuck, roan, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest, puku, klipspringer, bushbuck, and herds of elands and zebras. Water holes near the lodge at Chelinda attract waterbirds and mammals, while wattled cranes, Denham’s bustards, and ground – hornbills walk the grasslands.

• SOUTHERN MALAWI

Blantyre, the chief commercial city, lies in the much lower and hotter country of southern Malawi. The Shire River drains out from the southern end of Lake Malawi, descending to 230” (70 m) elevation and joining the great Zambezi River just south of the Malawi – Mozambique border. There are extensive marshes and swamps along the river. Liwonde National Park (132,900 acres / 53,800 ha) lies on the east bank of the river 87 mi (140 km) north of Blantyre. There is lodging nearby. Boat trips are available year – round, but park roads are closed in the wet season. Vegetation away from the river is Mopane woodland, dotted with baobabs and Candelabra euphorbias. Bird life is rich, and mammals are plentiful: many elephants, hippos, sables, waterbucks, greater Kudus, and lions. Lengwe National Park (219,100 acres / 88,700 ha), located 50 mi (80 km) southwest of Blantyre, is dry deciduous woodland, with several water holes featuring shaded blinds with seating. This is the northernmost range of the Nyala. Other mammals include the lion, leopard, greater Kudu,

suni, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest, Sharpe’s grysbok, Impala, and blue monkey. Birds range from the crested guinea fowl and the trumpeter hornbill to the lilac – breasted roller. Thirty – five miles (56 km) southeast of Blantyre is Mulanje Forest Reserve, which protects part of the isolated Mount Mulanje, the tallest mountain in Malawi, reaching 9,843” (3,000 m). This is trekking country, with a number of overnight huts. Habitats include open moorland, cliffs, and montane forest in the gullies, populated by a diverse avifauna.

Background information; by edgardowelelo@yahoo.com.

On the Indian Ocean Coast in southeastern Africa, directly west of Madagascar, Mozambique (297, 846 Sq. miles / 771 421, Sq. km) stretches from Tanzania south to the South African province of Natal. The entire country has a single high - sun rainy season from November through March. Mozambique once had the best national parks in southern Africa, but the status of the parks and wildlife has not been a priority in recent times. Wildlife present before and after the recent civil war is the focus of details. Reintroductions of animals might be possible when the parks are suitably protected again. Maputo, the capital, located in the far south, gets 32” (800 mm) of annual rainfall. Average highs are 75ᵒF (24ᵒC) in July and 88ᵒF (31ᵒC) in February. Maputo Reserve (222,300 acres / 90,000 ha), on the Natal border, has an enormous mix of habitats. Some 337 species of birds have been recorded, and there are many hundreds of elephants. The island of Inhaca, a three – hour ferry ride east of the capital, has lodging. Part of the island is protected today in Inhaca Faunal Reserve (4,900 acres / 2,000 ha), which has evergreen forest on dunes on the eastern shore. Local songbirds, crab plovers, and waders feed on the mudflats in summer, while yellow – nosed albatrosses cruise off shore in winter. The dry savannas east of Transvaal’s Kruger National park and southeastern Zimbabwe’s Gonarezhou National park may be joined with Mozambique’s Banhine National Park (1,729,000 acres / 700,000 ha) and the former Pafuri Game Reserve, which flank the Limpopo River, forming a vast international park. The open grassland and wooded savanna of Pafuri have been home to many roans, sables, giraffes, brown hyenas, and cheetahs. Zinave National Park (1,235,000 acres / 500,000 ha) protects savanna on the south bank of the Save River and is rich in wildlife, including many nyalas. Mozambique has 1,200 mi (1,900 km) of Coastline, with a mix of Mangroves, beaches, and vast coral reefs with sea grass beds, which host seabird colonies, sea turtles, and fish. Bazaruto National Park (37,100 acres / 15,000 ha),  an archipelago off  Vilanculos, is home to more than 100 individual dugongs, five species of nesting sea turtles, the Natal red duiker, and the blue monkey.  Luxury Lodgings here are reachable by air charter. The greatest concentration and variety of mammals and birds in southern Africa was once found in Gorongoza National Park (931,200 acres / 377,000 ha), 100 mi (160 km) northwest of the seaport of Beira. It features vast swamps along the Pu’ngo’e and Urema rivers, palm savanna, riverine forest, grassland, and – inselbergs. Major mammal species that have resided here include the elephant, buffalo, sable, greater Kudu, nyala, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest, blue wildebeest, reedbuck, oribi, eland, impala, hippo, zebra, black rhino, lion, and leopard. Nearby Mount Gorongoza (6,112” / 1,863 m) gets 80” (2,000 mm) of rain yearly. Its dense evergreen forests are home to rare birds such as the green – headed Oriole. There is still some montane forest and grassland in the Chimanimani, Mountains on the Zimbabwe border that reach 9,000” (2,750 m). The Zambezi river valley and much of the north is covered with dry Miombo woodland. Just above the Zambezi delta, lots of buffalos once lived in the Marromeu Reserve (2,470,000 acres / 1,000,000 ha). In far northern Mozambique is Niassa Game Reserve (3,705,000 acres / 1,500,000 ha), on the Ruvuma River. Part of the eastern shore of scenic Lake Malawi in the rift valley is in Mozambique’s northwestern corner.

Background information; by edgardowelelo@yahoo.com.

This vast arid country (317,887 Sq. miles / 823,327 Sq. km) on the southern Atlantic Ocean has spectacular scenic attractions and great animal parks. There are generally three seasons: cool and dry, from April through August; hot and dry, from September through November; hot and wet, from December through March. Most visitors come between March and October. The coast is very arid, with less than 4” (100 mm) of annual rainfall; much of the interior highlands gets between 4” and 20” (100 – 500 mm), while the northeast receives more than 20” (500 mm) annually. Reserves cover 13 percent of the country.  

• THE PLATEAU

Much of interior Namibia is elevated, averaging 3,300 – 5000” (1,000 – 1,500 m). Grasslands with scattered trees are punctuated by craggy mountains. The highest point is Brandberg (8,448” / 2,575 m), an isolated, misty massif with Bushman rock paintings north of the resort town of Swakopmund. Windhoek, the capital, is located among hills at 5,645” (1,720 m) elevation. Its average highs are 86ᵒ F (30ᵒ C) in December, but only 79ᵒ F (26ᵒC) in winter, when night time temperatures drop to freezing. Walking is allowed in Daan Viljoen Game Park (9,764 acres / 3,953 ha), 16 mi (25 km) west, which has roads and lodging. With wooded savanna and a lake, it harbors mountain zebras, klipspringers, springboks, and many other antelopes. Its 200 species of birds include Verreaux’s eagle, Ruppell’s parrot, Monteiro’s hornbill, and the white – tailed shrike. Hardap Nature Reserve (62,187 acres / 25,177 ha) is farther south, 9 mi (15 km) northwest of the town of Mariental. Visitors may walk among black rhinos, mountain zebras, and gemsboks. Its lake has nesting pelicans, cormorants, and fish – eagles. In far southern Namibia, Fish River Canyon Nature Reserve (854,909 acres / 346,117 ha) has landscapes similar to those of North America’s Grand Canyon. There are organized five - day hikes of 50 mi (85 km) along the canyon bottom during the cooler months of May through August. Wildlife here includes the mountain zebra, klipspringer, baboon, lanner falcon, white – backed mouse bird, and Nile monitor lizard. North of Windhoek, Waterberg Plateau Game Park (100,160 acres / 40,550 ha) is on a flat - topped escarpment rising above the plains. This lost world has relatively lush, broad – leafed woodlands, springs, and dinosaur tracks.  Among the park’ s wildlife are black and white rhinos, sables, roans, buffalos, Cape vultures, Hartlaub’s  francolins, and rosy – faced love birds. Lodging, trails, and ranger – led wildlife – viewing drives are available.

• THE NORTH

Etosha National Park (5,500,700 acres / 2,227,000 ha) surrounds a vast, glaring salt pan set among grassland and mopane woodland, 250 mi (400 km) north of Windhoek. The pan temporarily fills with water during wetter summers, attracting breeding flamingos, pelicans, and other waterbirds. Gravel tracks connect natural and pump – fed water holes, where herds of animals come to drink in the dry season. The more common hoofed mammals are the springbok, blue wildebeest, gemsbok, red hartebeest, greater kudu, giraffe, steenbok, black – faced impala, and the Damara race of Kirk’s dik – dik. These are joined by black rhinos, and elephants, all well protected. Lions, leopards, cheetahs, black – backed jackals, and Cape foxes are the most visible predators. The ostrich, the blue crane, and the Kori, crested, and black bustards head a list of 340 birds. There are three lodges in the park and a luxury lodge at Mokuti just to the east. Namutoni Lodge occupies an old German fort in the east near Fischer’s Pan, which sometimes has water when Etosha Pan is dry in early winter. The lodge at Halali, located in hills in the southeast, has local bare – cheeked babblers. The lodge at Okaukuejo, in the south, features an adjacent water hole that attracts an ongoing procession of elephants, black rhinos, antelopes, and birds, such as the crimson boubou. The Caprivi Strip, the panhandle of Namibia that reaches east to the Zambezi River just above Victoria Falls, is covered with woodland on Kalahari sand and has vast wetlands along the rivers. The Caprivi Strip has four reserves (listed here from west to east): Mahango Game Park (60,421 acres / 24, 462 ha), Western Caprivi Game Park (1,482,000 acres / 600, 000 ha), Mudumu National Park (205, 500 acres / 101,400 ha), and Mamili National Park (79,000 acres / 32,000 ha). There are airstrips, lodging, and four – wheel – drive tours over the sandy roads in this complex of adjacent reserves. Hippos, otters, and crocodiles live in the rivers. The marshlands are host to the red lechwe, reedbuck, waterbuck, and sitatunga. Upland areas have elephants, buffalos, giraffes, greater kudus, bushbucks, impalas, pukus, wildebeests, zebras, lions, leopards, and wild dogs. The region is rich in bird life, with 430 species known: highlights are the slaty egret, saddle - billed stork, wattled crane, skimmer, and Pel’s fishing owl.

• THE COAST

Cold waters from Antarctica flow north in the Benguela Current along Africa’s southern Atlantic coast. Although these waters are rich in fish and support many seabirds and mammals, they are not conducive to creating rain. At the port of Walvis Bay and the resort of Swakopmund, on the central coast, rainfall averages 0.8” (20 mm) a year despite frequent low fog between May and October. Temperatures are cool year – round, with average highs of 66 - 75ᵒF (19 - 24ᵒC). There is a guano – gathering platform north of Walvis Bay with many Cape cormorants (scrapings from nesting and perching stations are used for fertilizer). To the south and east of Swakopmund stretches the enormous Namib / Naukluft Park (12,292, 700 acres / 4,976,800 ha).  Among the park’s wildlife are the gemsbok, springbok, bat – eared fox, ostrich, three elephant – shrews, three gerbils, Gray’s lark, the herero chat, lizards, geckos, and the side – winding adder. The Namib Desert is the oldest in the world, and the park encompasses many of its different habitats. Sandwich harbor, reachable by four – wheel – drive south of Walvis Bay, has freshwater and saltwater lagoons, with flocks of waders, terns, and flamingos. Between the Swakop and Kuiseb rivers to the east there is stony desert with WELWITSCHIA (a conifer that looks like a giant, two – leafed agave) and some succulents. South of the Kuiseb River there is a sea of sand dunes; stunning orange dunes are found near the temporary lagoon of Sossusvlei, reached by road 36 mi (60 km) southwest of Sesriem, due west of Mariental (but not reachable from Swakopmund). From L’uderitz, an old German port to the south of Namib / Naukluft Park, visitors can take boat trips to islets and beaches with Cape fur seals and jackass penguins.

Cape Cross Seals Reserve (14,820 acres / 6,000 ha), 74 mi (120 km) north of Swakopmund, is home to roughly 100,000 Cape fur seals; the bulls arrive in mid – October. Skeleton Coast Park (3,952,000 acres / 1,600,000 ha) protects a long strip of foggy coast up to the Cunene River on the Angolan border. Brown hyenas and black – backed jackals scavenge washed – up seals, whales, and shipwrecks; lions were formerly among the scavengers. Small numbers of elephants, giraffes, and zebras wander the dune country inland. There are a few freshwater channels that attract springboks,  gemsboks, and birds. One such source is the Uniab Delta, 21 mi (33km) south of the camp at Terrace Bay. The only travel allowed on the northern coast is via licensed local operators. Restricted to existing – tracks (to protect the fragile desert plant life), travel is undertaken in groups of two or more four – wheel – drive vehicles, as vehicles can get stranded easily.

Background information: by edgardowelelo@yahoo.com

This small country (6,705 Sq.miles / 17,433 Sq.km) lies between Mozambique and South Africa. Mbabane, the capital, receives 55” (1,375 mm) of rain, chiefly between September and April. Average highs are 77ᵒF (25ᵒC) in January, 66ᵒF (19ᵒC) in June; some frost occurs in winter. Rising to 6,027”(1,837 m),Malolorja Nature Reserve (44,892 acres / 18,175 ha) is located in the northwest in the highveld grasslands of the Drakensberg escarpment. It has hiking trails and roads to caverns and to Malolorja Falls (330” / 100 m). Montane evergreen forest and open hillsides with rare Cycads, Proteas, Aloes, and Orchids are home to mountain reedbucks, gray rheboks, oribis, klipspringers, and blesboks. The bald ibis, blue crane, and blue swallow breed here. Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary (11,226 acres / 4,545 ha), 14 mi (22 km) south of Mbabane, has many hippos and has been restored with white rhinos and 18 species of antelopes, including the sable. Mkhaya Nature Reserve (15,314 acres / 6,200 ha), in the centre of the lowveld, offers luxury tenting, open – sided animal – viewing vehicles, walking trails, and rafting. The savanna here has elephants, both rhinos, zebras, giraffes, nyalas, greater Kudus, roans, and elands, plus many ostriches and eagles. In the northeastern corner of the country there are two adjacent reserves, Hlane National Park (74,100 acres / 30,000 ha) and Mlawula / Ndzindza Nature Reserve (45,400 acres / 18,400 ha ). Among the parks’ activities are walking, canoeing, and watching the vulture – feeding program. They are home to the white rhino, hippo,impala, blue wildebeest, giraffe, oribi, zebra, cheetah, leopard, and more than 300 species of birds.

Background information; by edgardowelelo@yahoo.com

This southernmost country in Africa has 1,860 mi (3,000 km) of coastline and a total area of 471,445 Sq.miles (1,221,042 Sq. km). The Atlantic side features the cold Antarctic waters of the northward – flowing Benguela Current. Warm waters of the Agulhas Current flow southwestward along the Indian Ocean Coast. The coastal plain is rather narrow. In the east, foothills of the Drakensberg Mountains lead up to high plateau that tops 3,900’’ (1,200 m). In the southwest, ancient series of mountains rise over 6,600’’ (2,000 m) before yielding to a lower – elevation dry plateau called the Great Karroo. Southwestern Cape Province has a Mediterranean climate with cool winter rains and hot dry summers.  The Indian Ocean Coast has both winter and summer rains. Most of the plateau has rain in the high - sun summer months. Note: The names and boundaries of the provinces in South Africa are under review and likely to change. The natural vegetation of South Africa can be divided into six (6) types, with many transitional types: (1) The ‘’Cape floral Kingdom’’ of southern and southwestern Cape Province is highly diverse, with thousands of endemic plant species. Much of this vegetation is fynbos – shrubby, heath – like plants of many species. The region also has many showy flowering plants, such as the thick – leafed proteas. (2) The Karroo semi – arid scrub on the lower Karroo plateau has sparse shrubs and succulents. (3) Highveld grassland carpets the high plateau, with scattered trees in places. (4) Lowveld wooded savanna blankets lower elevations in northern and eastern Transvaal Province. (5) Moist savanna and dune forest mosaic occurs in northern Natal. (6) Subtropical evergreen forest patches grow in the high Drakensberg Mountains and along the sea on the southern coast. South Africa has a superb system of national parks, provincial game reserves, and other protected areas numbering in the hundreds. Rather than focusing on the foreign tourist (as do parks elsewhere in Africa), its parks and reserves cater primarily to local residents who enjoy seeing and experiencing wildlife and wilderness. Superior lodging, camps, tracks, and wilderness trails are the norm. Protection has been excellent and poaching rare. In contrast to the local extinctions of species after species in parks in tropical Africa, here rhinos, large hoofed mammals, and predators are being restocked in many parks in their former ranges. Cape Province, Natal, Orange Free State, and Transvaal are among examples of provinces in South Africa abound with lots of wildlife.

1. CAPE PROVINCE

• The Southwest Cape

Cape Town is a scenic port city at the southwestern corner of Africa. It receives 21’’ (525 mm) of rain yearly, chiefly in its low – sun winter, between April and October. Cable cars take visitors up to the flat – topped sandstone massif of Table Mountain Nature Reserve (7,173 acres / 2,904 ha). Hiking trails lead through montane fynbos with the rock hyrax, speckled pigeon, and orange – breasted sunbird. Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve (19,143 acres / 7,750 ha) protects the tall cliffs of Cape Point and open flatlands with 1,200 plant species.  The chacma baboon, Hartlaub’s and kelp gulls, the red – winged starling, and the reintroduced bontebok are common.  Southern right whales, Cape fur seals, and Cape cormorants feed in nearby waters.  Jackass penguins burrow in mainland scrub above the beach just south of Simon’s Town on the False Bay shore, north of the reserve. Above the vineyards and the old university town of Stellenbosch, 25 mi (40 km) east of Cape Town, lies Hottentots Holland Mountain Catchment Area ( 209,792 acres / 84,936 ha), which protects the montane fynbos in a water catchment area of rugged mountains, cliffs, and forested gorges. Victoria Peak rises to 5,213’’ (1,589 m), receiving 140” (3,500 mm) of annual rain, and snow in winter. West Coast National Park (49,400 acres / 20,000 ha), 74 mi (120 km) northwest of Cape Town, has islands where kelp gulls and Cape gunnets nest. The park’s Langebaan Lagoon is flanked by marshlands that attract numerous waders. The Postberg sector has sandveld and coastal fynbos habitats with impressive spring wildflowers where black wildebeests, bonteboks, and elands roam.  Bird Island can be reached on foot via a smooth – topped breakwater from the port of Lambert’s Bay, 125 mi (200 km) north of Cape Town. There are pathways and a blind beside a colony of 5,000 pairs of  Cape gannets.  Cape and bank cormorants and jackass penguins also nest here and southern right whales occur offshore. Flamingos and South African shelducks are often seen at Waldrift Vlei  just to the south. Grainfields in southwestern Cape Province are home to the blue crane, black bustard, black harrier, and red bishop. Cedarberg Wilderness (175,400 acres / 71,000 ha), east of the town of Clanwilliam, has rugged terrain culminating in the frequently snow – capped Sneeuberg (8,215’/2,504 m). Many small antelopes live here, while larger ones, such as the black wildebeest and bontebok, have been reintroduced northeast of the town of Ceres at the private Kagga Kamma reserve, which has relocated Bushmen into ancestral areas. One of the highlights of the reserve, which has lodging, is a spectacular canyon.

• THE SOUTH COAST

South Africa claims the far – off Prince Edward Islands, 1,360 mi (2,200 km) to the southeast of Cape Agulhas, the southernmost point in Africa. These windy subantarctic islands of tussock grass have nesting seals, penguins, and albatrosses. Bontebok National  Park (6,881 acres / 2,786 ha), east of Cape  T own, has low – growing fynbos; the remaining of bonteboks in the world were transferred here in 1931. Today, in addition to several hundred bonteboks, visitors may see the gray rhebok, Cape grysbok, common duiker, steenbok, Cape batis, and bokmakierie bush – shrike. Nearby De Hoop Nature Reserve (148,200 acres / 60,000 ha) includes a marine reserve where dolphins and southern right whales are seen. De Hoop preserves the largest remaining tract of coastal fynbos, with 1,500 recorded plant species, including 50 restricted to this site. It has the world’s largest herd of bonteboks, plus elands (reintroduced) and Cape mountain zebras. The Garden Route, a scenic drive between Mossel Bay and Port Elizabeth, passes among east – west ranges and a wild coastline of cliffs, canyons, and beaches. Wilderness National Park (24,700 acres / 10,000 ha), between the coast towns of George and Knysna, contains a series of reed – lined lakes with blinds, boardwalks, and many waterbirds. Tsitsikamma Forest and Coastal National Park (8,195 acres / 3,318 ha) lines the coast east of the – resort of Plettenberg Bay. Some tall patches of native forest remain, with giant yellowwoods and stinkwoods. The Knysna race of the green turaco lives in the forests, and the Cape clawless otter lives in the streams. Port Elizabeth is a major coastal city that receives 23’’ (575 mm) of rain evenly spread through the year. Addo Elephant National Park (22,200 acres / 9,000 ha), 43 mi (70 km) northeast of Port Elizabeth, is fenced to keep its wildlife away from nearby farms. The vegetation is thick evergreen bush, making animal spotting difficult, except from hills and water holes. There are many elephants, plus black rhinos, elands, buffalos, and some 160 species of birds. Just to the north, Suurberg National Park (59,621 acres / 24,138 ha) has reintroduced the Cape mountain zebra. The park has rare Cycads and pincushion plants in its rounded mountains covered in fynbos and evergreen forest.

• THE INTERIOR

Mountain Zebra National Park (16,144 acres / 6,536 ha), 125 mi (200 km) north of Port Elizabeth, is  in the Bankberg Mountains, which rise to 6,421’’ (1,957 m) and have frequent winter snow. Karroo scrub and grassland blanket the slopes. Several hundred Cape mountain zebras have been protected here, along with the eland, black wildebeest, blesbok, springbok, and mountain reedbuck.  To the west, near the historic town of Graaff – Reinet,  Karroo Nature Reserve (34,600 acres / 14,000 ha) has many of the same mammals, plus the greater Kudu. It has a reservoir, succulent veld, and a great chasm called the Valley of Desolation. Karroo National Park (69,884 acres / 28,293 ha), west of  Beaufort West on Karroo – scrub hillsides around the cliffs of the Nieuwveld Mountains, gets about 10’’ (250 mm) of rain annually. The park has 180 species of birds and such mammals as the Cape mountain zebra, red hartebeest, black wildebeest, springbok, bat - eared and Cape foxes, and the caracal. The Orange River, which forms much of the boundary between Namibia and Cape Province, flows through Augrabies Falls National Park (203,565 acres / 82,415 ha), 79 mi (128 km) west of the town of Upington. It forms rapids, then gorge, and finally tumbles over Bridal Falls (184’’ / 56 m). This is a dry area dotted with aloes and euphorbias; many black rhinos, springboks, steenboks, klipspringers, rock hyraxes, and 161 species of birds live here. The river divides the Karroo scrub to the south from the Kalahari sandveld to the north. Remote Kalahari Gemsbok National Park (2,368,984 acres / 959,103 ha) occupies the northern wedge of Cape Province; 220 mi (350 km) north of Upington, it is flanked by Namibia and Botswana. There are lodges at three sites, and gravel and sandy tracks through semi - desert savanna with sand ridges.  This area has hot summers, cold winters, and 8’’ (200 mm) of erratic rainfall. Rains bring forth flowers, wild melons and cucumbers, and fills the normally dry riverbeds. Bore holes provide water for the wildlife that migrates through here chiefly between February and May. Mammals of note include the gemsbok, eland, blue wildebeest, red hartebeest, springbok, suricate, lion, cheetah, leopard, and brown and spotted hyenas. Some 215 birds are known, including the ostrich, kori bustard, pygmy falcon, namaqua sandgrouse, and sociable weaver, with its huge communal nests. In the northwestern corner of Cape Province, Richtersveld National Park (400,000 acres / 162,000 ha) protects unique plant life in rugged mountains near the mouth of the Orange River. Goegap Nature Reserve (37,100 acres / 15,000 ha), to the south, east of the village of Springbok, has kokerboom (tall aloe trees), succulents, and beautiful wildflowers after rare winter rains, plus Hartmann’s race of the mountain zebra.

1. NATAL PROVINCE (KWAZULU NATAL)

Located between the Drakensberg Mountains and the Indian Ocean, Natal stretches from Cape Province northeast to Mozambique. Inland it borders land – locked Lesotho and Transvaal. Its major city is Durban, a port and resort on the warm waters of the Indian Ocean. It receives 40” (1,000 mm) of rain spread evenly year – round. Average highs are 72ᵒF (22ᵒC) in July and 81ᵒF(27ᵒc) in January.

• ZULULAND AREA

There is a cluster of excellent wildlife reserves in the northeastern Zululand area, up the coast from Durban: Umfolozi Game Reserve (117,955 acres / 47,755 ha), Hluhluwe Game Reserve (56,975 acres / 23,067 ha), and Mkuzi Game Reserve (84,000 acres / 34,000 ha). Each has lodging inside and nearby, tracks, water holes, rivers, and wilderness trails. Vegetation is a mix of hillside woodland, grassy flats, wooded savanna, and thickets. These reserves feature the best viewing and photography blinds in Africa. Visitors walk through avenues of tall canes along boardwalks to large, thatched – roof blinds built right in the middle of water holes and come face to face with drinking mammals and birds. For years Umfolozi was the secret stronghold of white rhinos, which were being hunted everywhere else; most relocations into protected areas have come from this stock.  These parks are also a stronghold of the nyala and have elephants, hippos, giraffes, elands, blue wildebeests, greater kudus, waterbucks, impalas, buffalos, Natal red duckers, sunis, zebras, black rhinos, lions, cheetahs, and leopards. Many of the 450 species of birds are at the southern limit of their ranges. Phinda Resource Reserve (37,100 acres / 15,000 ha), located east of Hluhluwe, is a new eco – tourism reserve with most of the same species; it blends the needs of local people with luxury lodgings for visitors. Greater Saint Lucia Wetland Reserve, along the coast south of Mkuzi and Hluhluwe, will create the third – largest park in South Africa, incorporating a string of existing reserves along with new areas of lakes, lagoons, dune forest, beaches, and offshore reefs. The various areas are home to hippos, crocodiles, nesting pink – backed pelicans, many waterbirds, and nesting sea turtles, including leather backed turtles.  Ndumu Game Reserve (24,988 acres / 10,117 ha), on the Mozambique border, has no great animal herds, but its forests have many localized songbirds, while Pel’s fishing owl, waterbirds, and pythons inhabit its waterways. Inland on the Transvaal border at Louwsburg, Itala Nature Reserve (63,963 acres / 25,896 ha) has a variety of lodgings in a hilly area with steep valleys  along the Pongolo River; it supports 400 species of birds, both rhinos, cheetahs, leopards, tsessebes, reedbucks, impalas, and giraffes.

• THE MOUNTAINS

Western Natal is dominated by the tall wall of the east – facing escarpment of the Drakensberg Mountains. This long row of sandstone and basaltic lava cliffs along the Lesotho border is the highest range in southern Africa and is often dusted with snow in winter. Rainfall is highest in summer. There are colonies of the rare bald ibis near the Mooi River, northwest of Pietermaritzburg. Wattled cranes breed in Umgeni Vlei Nature Reserve, southwest of the Mooi River. The Giant’s Castle Nature Reserve (85,556 acres / 34,638 ha) is 40 mi (65 km) west of the Mooi River. While there is a road up to the rest camp, the network of trails beyond is accessible only by foot and horseback. Massive cliffs are pocked with caves where Bushman art is common. The slopes are chiefly grassland, with woodland along the rushing streams. Set aside for the eland, the reserve is also home to the blesbok, black wildebeest, red hartebeest, and 140 species of birds, including the Lammergeyer.

Royal Natal National Park (21,874 acres / 8,856 ha), on the Orange Free State – Lesotho border, has a range of lodging facilities. This is a scenic wonderland, with Mont aux Sources (10,822” / 3,299 m), the crescent – shaped bowl (formed by an adjacent mountain and canyon) called the Amphitheatre, and three – tier Tugela Falls, which drops 3,110” (948 m). The few mammals in the park include baboons, bushbucks, klipspringers, gray rheboks, and mountain reedbucks.

1. ORANGE FREE STATE

In the 1800s this interior state was an endless highveld grassland with vast herds of migratory animals, including the quagga, a partially striped zebra that is now extinct. Orange Free State is now a sea of fenced grainfields, and most of its animals have been reintroduced to various reserves near reservoirs. Bloemfontein, the provincial capital, at 4,660” (1,420 m), receives 22” (550 mm) of rain in the high – sun months of October through April. Average highs are 86ᵒF (30ᵒC) in January, 61ᵒF (16ᵒC) in July; frosts are common at night in winter.

Willem Pretorius Game Reserve (29,652 acres / 12,005 ha), 100 mi (161 km) northeast, has the world’s largest herd of black – wildebeests, and remnant herds of springboks, red hartebeests, blesboks, and elands. Tussen – die – Riviere Game Farm (54,300 acres / 22,000 ha) also has those species, plus the white rhino, gemsbok, aardwolf, and bat – eared fox; it is located in the far south at the confluence of the Orange and Caledon rivers. Wate birds and other birds such as the blue bustard occur at both reserves. Golden Gate Highlands National Park (15,415 acres / 6,241 ha) is located on the Lesotho border, 37 mi (60 km) southeast of the Orange Free State town of Bethlehem. Golden sandstone cliffs rise above grassland and protea scrub at 6,000 – 9,100” (1,825 – 2,770 m); the area receives 34’’ (850 mm) of annual rain, chiefly in summer. There are wildlife – viewing roads here: mammals of interest are the black wildebeest, eland, red hartebeest, blesbok, and oribi. Bird life – includes the Lammergeyer, Cape vulture, Jackal buzzard, black eagle, ground woodpecker, and Gurney’s sugarbird. Qwaqwa Conservation Area (74,100 acres /30,000 ha), located between Golden Gate and Royal Natal National Park, in Natal, is home to the bald ibis and the wattled crane.

1. TRANSVAAL PROVINCE

• The Highveld

Johannesburg, the largest city in Southern Africa, is located at 5,460” (1,665 m) elevation; it gets 28” (700 mm) of annual rain, chiefly in summer. Average highs are 79ᵒF (26ᵒC) in January and 63ᵒF (17ᵒc) in June; frosts occur in winter. Pretoria, the administrative capital of South Africa, 35 mi (56 km) to the north, is slightly lower and warmer. Pilanesberg National Park (123,500 acres / 50,000 ha), near the resort of Sun City, several hours northwest of both cities, shows how protection and reintroductions can restore an ecosystem. This is a huge volcanic crater rising above the plains, with tracks, trails, and blinds. It has an abundance of antelopes, plus elephants, both rhinos, giraffes, zebras, leopards, and cheetahs. Barberspan Nature Reserve  (7, 622 acres / 3,086 ha), located in western Transvaal, 12 mi (19 km) northeast of the town of Delareyville, is an important wetland, often full of flamingos, herons ,ducks, and waders, among 350 recorded bird species. In northeastern Transvaal, the highveld grasslands meet another sector of the Drakensberg escarpment.  Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve (55,980 acres / 22,664 ha), which overlooks Kruger National Park to the east, has subtropical evergreen forest, protea shrubs, and grassland in a spectacular setting of rounded peaks, dramatic waterfalls, and rushing rivers. There are country hotels and trails, and visitors may see Bushman paintings, many small antelopes, five primates, and highland birds.

• THE LOWVELD

Kruger National Park (4,812,864 acres / 1,948,528 ha), one of the world’s oldest and largest parks is 217 mi (350 km) long. It lies along the Mozambique border, stretching from Zimbabwe south almost to Swaziland (Eswatini). There are an airport (at Skukuza), 24 lodges and camps, eight entrance gates, and a vast network of both gravel and paved roads. The remote northern sector is chiefly mopane woodland, with most of the park’s elephants, roans, tsessebes, and elands. The drier southern sector has more grassland and acacias, with most of the giraffes, impalas, black rhinos, and lions. The higher, greener southwestern area has white rhinos and sables. Other mammals, such as the greater Kudu, buffalo, waterbuck, warthog, leopard, and wild dog, are found widely. The rivers are trickles in the winter dry season, with pools where hippos and crocodiles congregate. Reverine woodlands with many fig trees harbor – nyalas and bushbucks. The 480 species of birds are chiefly widespread savanna species; the greatest variety is found in the rainy summer months when few tourists visit. The private wildlife reserves of Klaserie, Londolozi, Mala Mala, Sabi Sabi, Sabi Sand, and Timbavati lie between Skukuza and Phalaborwa  on the western side of Kruger. Offering excellent protection, they have large numbers of wildlife, especially rhinos. Most have private airstrips and luxury lodging; they provide open – sided wildlife – viewing vehicles and encourage night drives.  

Background information; by edgardowelelo@yahoo.com.

Located on the Central African Plateau, most of this country is above 3,300” (1,000 m) elevation. Its total area is 290,585 Sq. miles (752,615 Sq. km). The natural vegetation is chiefly miombo woodland, with drier mopane woodland along the lower elevations of the Zambezi and Luangwa rivers. There are extensive seasonal marshes in the floodplains, several lakes, and small areas of evergreen and montane forests. There are three seasons;  cool and dry, between May and August; hot and dry, September and October; and hot and wet, from November  through April.

• CENTRAL ZAMBIA

Lusaka, the capital, receives 33” (825 mm) of annual rain and enjoys average highs of 73ᵒF (23ᵒC) in June and 88ᵒF (31ᵒC) in October. Lower Zambezi National Park (1,022,600 acres / 414,000 ha), east of Lusaka, lies along the northern bank of the Zambezi between Kariba Dam and the Mozambique border. Canoe trips are offered (with camping ashore) that take visitors past elephants and hippos. Lochinvar National Park (101,300 acres / 41,000 ha), 155 mi (250 km) southwest of Lusaka on the southern bank of the Kafue River, has a lodge. Dirt tracks run through grassland dotted with euphorbia, termite mounds, and trees. The floodplains reach maximum water levels in May and dry up by November. There are many Kafue lechwes here, along with zebras, elands, blue wildebeests, impalas, oribis, greater kudus, and hippos. More than 400 birds have been recorded, including crowned and wattled cranes, the slaty egret, and Denham’s bustard. Blue Lagoon National Park (111,200 acres / 45,000 ha), opposite Lochinvar on the north side of the Zambezi River 85 mi (135 km) west of Lusaka,  has a cause way into the flats where plentiful of Kafue lechwes live, as well as wild dogs, roans, sables, buffalos, and the local Chaplin’s barbet. To the west huge Kafue National Park (8,002,800 acres / 3,240,000 ha) has several lodges and an airstrip.   It is covered with miombo and mopane woodland and teak forest, and has clay based floodplains in the north at Busanga Swamp. Much of the park is open only from July through December. It has a few Kafue lechwes and sitatungas, and many buffalos, hippos, waterbucks, pukus, reedbucks, impalas, and Lichtenstein’s hartebeests. In addition there are lions, leopards, a few cheetahs, sables, roans, elephants, zebras, and black rhinos. Yellow baboons live in the north, and chacma baboons in the south. Remote West Lunga National Park (415,900 acres / 168,400 ha), northwest of Kafue, requires camping and four – wheel – drive vehicles.  It has dry evergreen forest, elephants, and a variety of antelopes and carnivores.

• THE SOUTHWEST ZAMBIA

Victoria Falls is the centerpiece of Mosi – Oa – Tunya National Park (16,300 acres / 6,600 ha), on the north bank of the Zambezi River near the city of Livingstone. The river drops 355” (108 m) in a long sheer of water. A wide, lazy river above the falls, the Zambezi is a narrow raging torrent in the zigzag of canyons below. The maximum flow is in March and April, when the rising mist all but obscures the view. Birds of the area include the Taita falcon, bat hawk, white – collared pratincole, mocking cliff  chat, and various swifts. Sioma – Ngwezi National Park (1,303,200 acres/ 527,600 ha) occupies the southwestern corner of Zambia on the Namibia border, west of the Zambezi. It is relatively arid Kalahari sandveld, with mopane and teak woodland. Four – wheel – drives is a must.  The park is home to one of Zambia’s two giraffe populations, elephants, steenboks, sables, and dry – country birds such as Bradfield’s hornbill and Burchell’s starling. Liuwa Plain National Park (904,000 acres / 366,000 ha), also undeveloped, is located near the Angola border. There are flat grassy plains with abundance of blue wildebeests, plus red lechwes, tsessebes, zebras, lions, cheetahs, and wattled cranes.

• THE LUANGWA VALLEY

In eastern Zambia, four (4) national parks line the meandering Luangwa River, which follows the rift valley to the southwest before joining the ZAMBEZI. The chief park is SOUTH LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK (2,235,400 acres / 905,000 ha); an hour by air from Lusaka, it is one of Africa’s best in terms of wildlife abundance and variety of lodges and camps. Night wildlife - viewing drives are encouraged. It has wooded savanna beyond the ponds, seasonal floodplains, and gallery forests that line the river. The Thornicroft race of giraffe, the endangered black rhino, and large herds of elephants, zebras, buffalos, and impalas are features. Hippos, crocodiles, common waterbucks, many water birds, carmine bee – eaters and Nile monitors reside along the river. The wooded areas host the greater Kudu, puku, roan, eland, and Lichtenstein’s hartebeest. There are good numbers of lions, leopards, and side – striped jackals. The local Lillian’s lovebird is but one of 400 known species of birds. North Luangwa National Park (1,145,100 acres / 463,600 ha), just to the north, is a wilderness trail area with no vehicle access. Hikers overnight in camps among wildlife similar to that in the southern park, with the addition of Cookson’s race of wildebeest, but no giraffes. The Luambe National Park (62,700 acres / 25,400 ha), east of the river, is the main stronghold of Cookson’s wildebeest and also has many elephants.  Lukusuzi National Park (671,800 acres / 272,000 ha), on a plateau east of the rift valley escarpment, has granite outcrops with klipspringers, miombo woodland with sables, and many mammals around its grassy floodplains.  It is visited in day trips from South Luangwa National Park.

• THE NORTHEAST ZAMBIA

Nyika Plateau National Park (19,760 acres / 8,000 ha) is adjacent to the much larger Malawian park of the same name. Its high plateau grassland, steep cliffs, and relict patches of evergreen montane woodland are home to many small mammals and birds not found elsewhere in Zambia. Elevations reach 7,300” (2,225 mi). Between North Luangwa National Park and Lake Bangweulu, Isangano National Park (207,500 acres / 84,000 ha) protects some of the flooded marshlands east of the lake, the main area for the highly local black lechwe. The rich bird life includes the shoebill, wattled crane, and pygmy – goose.  Most visitations are by day aircrafts from South Luangwa and by boat. Farther south, Lavushi Manda National Park (370,500 acres / 150,000 ha), southwest of the town of Mpika, is a scenic park with roads reaching rugged hills, high cliffs, palm canyons, and riverine habitats. Kasanka National Park (96,300 acres / 39,000 ha), to the west, requires four – wheel – drive vehicles and camping to visit. Its extensive swamp forest and wetlands are home to sitatungas, pukus, and hippos. Sumbu (Nsumbu)National Park (498,900 acres / 202,000 ha) is on the southwestern corner of Lake Tanganyika, the second - largest lake in Africa. The park has several lodges and an airstrip, as well as 60 mi (100 km) of shoreline, including a few beaches. In land there are thickets in the valleys and rolling grassland on the plateau, where animals are easy to see. Elephants, buffalos, pukus, and bushbucks are common, while zebras, Lichtenstein’s hartebeests, roans, sables, elands, and Sharpe’s grysboks occur in lesser numbers. The Tanganyika water cobra can be seen from jetties. Mweru – Wantipa National Park (774,100 acres / 313,400 ha), just to the west, has vast marshes and grasslands with sitatungas, pukus, and shoebills. There are waterfalls along the Kalugwisha River and evergreen forest in Lusenga Plain National Park (217,400 acres / 88,000 ha), east of Lake Mweru, where elephants, sables, elands, and leopards reside.

Background information; by edgardowelelo@yahoo.com

Another plateau country mostly above 3,900’’ (1,200 m) elevation, Zimbabwe has a total area of 150,820 Sq. miles (390,623 Sq.km). The Great Dyke, a broad, mineral – rich ridge 400 mi (650 km) long, runs through the center of the country on a southeast – northwest diagonal. The land slopes downward to the Zambezi Valley in the north and to the Sabi and Limpopo valleys in the south. The natural vegetation is mostly miombo woodland, along with drier mopane woodland at lower elevations, and montane forest, grassland, and heath in the eastern highlands. The climate is quite pleasant, except in the lowlands late in the dry season, when it is very hot. The high – sun rains fall from November through March. The low river valleys get an annual rainfall of 16 – 24’’ (400 – 600 mm), the plateau 30 – 40’’ (750 – 1000 mm), and the eastern highlands 600 – 80’’ (1,500 – 2000 mm).

• THE PLATEAU

Harare, the capital, is at an altitude of 4,833’’ (1,473 m). Between Harare and the southwestern city of Bulawayo there are number of recreational and animal parks around artificial reservoirs: many birds and reintroduced mammals can be seen at such lakes as  Mcllwaine, Ngezi,Sebakwe, and Kyle, all of which are designated  recreation areas, and Mushandike, which is a sanctuary.

The Great Zimbabwe National Monument/ World  Heritage Site (1,843 acres / 746 ha) is 181 mi (292 km) south of Harare near Masvingo. Greater kudus and steenboks graze near the walled ruins of a city – state that controlled trade over a vast area from Botswana to Mozambique, reaching its height from A.D.1000 to 1400. Matobo National  Park (105,000 acres / 42,500 ha) lies 20 mi (32 km) south of Bulawayo in the  Matobo  Hills, which have many Kopjes (Rocky outcrops) with giant boulders, Bushman paintings, and deep valleys. Tracks lead through wooded slopes, grassy vleis, and swamps. Native mammals include the impala, greater kudu, bushbuck, sable, klipspringer, leopard, -   and hyrax. The white rhino and other antelopes have been reintroduced. More than 300 species of birds are known, and many pairs of Verreaux’s eagles are resident.

• EASTERN ZIMBABWE

Green highlands mark the Mozambique border. Nyanga (Inyanga) National Park (81,500 acres / 33,000 ha) lies 125 mi (200 km) east of Harare. Very scenic, the park includes mount Nyangani, the highest point in Zimbabwe at 8,517’’ (2,596 m), and Mtarazi Falls, which drop 820’’ (250 m). Habitats include montane woodland with some cedar and protea, grassland, and cliffs. There are few mammals, but birds of note include the rare wattled crane, crowned eagle, Gurney’s sugarbird, and blue swallow. Vumba Botanical Reserve (500 acres / 200 ha), 17 mi (28 km) southeast of the town of Mutare, is near many fine country hotels. The gardens and montane forest are home to the silvery – cheeked hornbill, rare bush – shrikes, and sunbirds.  Chimanimani National Park (42,200 acres / 17,100 ha) is 47 mi (75 km) south of Mutare.  While there is lodging near the park, it has no roads, only hiking trails, which wind about rugged peaks, including Mount Binga at about 8,000’’ (2,400 m), deep gorges, and waterfalls. There are many proteas, ferns, and orchids; the park should be enlarged to include nearby forests. Residents include elands, bushbucks, duikers, and klipspringers, and such highland birds as the malachite sunbird, chirinda apalis, and Cape robin – chat. Gonarezou National  Park (1,248,100 acres / 505,300 ha) is located in the southeastern corner of Zimbabwe, just north of Kruger National Park in South Africa’s Transvaal Province. Visits are best made between May and October in the dry season. Gonarezhou features great walls of cliffs, three major river valleys with hippos and crocodiles, and extensive savanna woodland. It is the Zimbabwe stronghold for the Nyala, the suni, and Lichtenstein’s hartebeest. Elephants and small antelopes such as Sharpe’s grysbok and the oribi live here.  Fruit trees attract parrots, trumpeter hornbills, African green pigeons, purple – crested turacos, barbets, and starlings.

• THE NORTHWEST ZIMBABWE

Mana Pools National Park / World Heritage Site (542,400 acres / 219,600 ha) lies at an elevation of 1,650’’ (500 m) on the eastward – flowing Zambezi River. Several very small lodges and camps are open between April and October. There are tall gallery forests, ponds, and grassland along the river, beginning about 60 mi (100 km) downstream from Kariba Dam, and thick mopane woodland on the escarpment above. The park has many elephants, buffalos, zebras, and hippos, but few black rhinos survive. Such antelopes as the nyala, eland, puku, waterbuck, and impala coexist with lions, leopards, and spotted hyenas.  The 380 birds include the Nyasa lovebird and Livingstone’s flycatcher. Lake Kariba on the Zambezi, up to 25 mi (40 km) wide at some points, was the scene of Operation Noah, which rescued animals trapped when the closing of Kariba Dam first filled the lake with water. There are lodges on the lake’s southern side at Fothergill and Spurwing islands, and at Bumi Hills. These lodges flank Matusadona National Park (347,500 acres / 140,700 ha), which has grassy flats by the lake and woodlands in the hills. The shores have good numbers of elephants, buffalos, waterbucks, hippos, and impalas, plus a rich array of birds, such as cormorants, herons, fish eagles, Dickinson’s kestrels, jacanas, and white – crowned lapwings. Chizarira National Park (471,800 acres / 191,000 ha), in a hilly wilderness area to the southwest of Matusadona, is a sanctuary for black rhinos, elephants, roans, sables, tsessebes, and lions.

• THE FAR WEST

Hwangwe National Park (3,618 acres / 1,465,100 ha), southeast of Victoria Falls on the Botswana border, gets about 26’’ (650 mm) of annual rain. It is most pleasant between May and August but has the largest concentration of animals in the very hot months of September and October, before the rains. There are many lodges and camps, a jet airstrip, and 280 mi (450 km) of tracks for animal drives. The 62 water holes are the focal points for visitors and wildlife. Nyamandhlovu Pan, 6 mi (10 km) from the main camp, has a shaded viewing platform from which visitors observe the procession of mammals and birds coming to drink. The northern half of the park is slightly wet woodland, while the south has more open and drier grassland. Wildlife includes elephants, buffalos, impalas, greater kudus, and sables. Both black and white rhinos have been reintroduced with good protection. Giraffes, blue wildebeests, elands, roans, tsessebes, lions, leopards, wild dogs, two hyenas, two jackals, and bat – eared foxes also occur. The more than 400 birds include the ostrich, dark chanting – goshawk, kori bustard, and yellow – billed hornbill. At Kazuma Pan National Park (77,300 acres / 31,300 ha), southwest of Victoria Falls, gemsboks visit the flat open grassland, where cheetahs, oribis, and tsessebes also live. Zambezi National Park (139,100 acres / 56,300 ha) protects the south bank of the river west of the falls. Hippos and crocodiles live in the river and can be seen from cruise boats. The mopane woodland and grassland inland are home to many sables, plus roans, greater kudus, giraffes, elephants, lions and leopards. The town of Victoria Falls has a fine airport and an excellent range of lodgings. At Victoria Falls National Park (4,900 acres / 2,000 ha), rising clouds of spray create a wonderful mist forest of ebony, mahogany, and fig trees on a carpet of ferns and mosses. This is home to bushbucks, Livingstone’s green turacos, trumpeter hornbills; Heuglin’s robins, and African paradise – flycatchers.